Norway has conventionally found its place in the bucket lists of the daredevils and vikings of the planet and it is time to open the roads to this Land of Midnight Sun for the wanderlust of the families, newly wed, solo travelers, hikers/bikers, photography enthusiasts, students , liberal vagabonds or simply anyone with an appetite to travel in order to experience the best of landscapes, culture, folk, history, adventures, fun-filled activities and food. It is said, best journeys are when you get lost but in the right direction and one such direction is this road to Norway and in a nutshell it was soul nourishing. This blog is a chronicle of my visit along with my husband and 11 year old daughter during May 2017. Lets get straight to the practicalities of planning the travel.
Best time to visit Norway is undeniably when the midnight sun is out there at the horizon which is from May to September.
For the very first visit of Norway, it’s great to start with The Southland or Southern Norway in the geographical region. Below is a three week itinerary of our travel trail, that is midway between the luxurious leisure travel unbound by time and a hurried touch-and-go trip.The itinerary takes into consideration the diverse intent of travel viz exploration, relaxation, indulgence, adventure, soul searching and opportunities to let the land’s gravity captivate us with her mystic magnetism.
Key Travel Tips:
1. Norway being an expensive country, one of the creative ways to optimize on cost and maximize the experience is to go for “Home stay” which can be easily found on Airbnb. We maximized the experience as a homestays hosted by Norwegian families opened up an opportunity:
- to stay in homes designed and curated that’s a reflection of Norwegian heritage that gives a taste of local culture
- experience the feeling of actually “living there”
- optimize cost of food, laundry and other miscellaneous expenses as we are at the disposal of a fully furnished home
- simply more room which is always welcome.
The itinerary suggests a Airbnb property in each location. However use the liberty to search for a property to suit the personal needs.
2. The route could be traversed as a road-trip driving, to maximize the experience or use the well connected public transport that is a de-facto option. Below itinerary is self-drive plan and recommend to go with leading car hire vendors like Hertz, Avis, Europcar or Sixt. We hired from Europcar. Car hire needed only from Day-4 and return on Day 18 (effectively for 14 days) as days in Bergen and Oslo can be explored by walk or using cheap public transport. For public transport option to traverse the itinerary, please look up NSB rail
3. For groceries and other essential shopping, the leading supermarket chains are : Rema1000, Bunnpris, Extra(coop) and Kiwi Minipris.
4. It is a good idea to have a prepaid local SIM from Telia @ Oslo Central Station, with a good data plan for ease of local calling and navigation. 3.25 GB and unlimited local calls/messages is available for about 300 NOK. (Check NOK to INR exchange rate)
5. Whichever destination one reaches in Norway, it is a good idea to first visit the tourist information center first and get their recommendation on activities, weather and collect important maps. Whilst there is information in this blog, the hosts also guide and there is information on the net. Yet it is a good idea to visit the tourist information center for guidance on the ground for that day.
Day 1: Land is Oslo and acclimatize
Landed in Oslo Airport, Gardermoen and took the express train Flytoget to reach Oslo Central Station. Stayed close to Oslo Central Station @ Downtown Studio, for easy access to key attractions around the city. Relaxed the day and acclimatized.
Reflections: Welcomed by midnight sunset, I was already smitten by the vivid colors Norway had painted on my soul.
Day 2: Oslo : Cityscape along the Fjord
A day to explore the capital city. We bought the Oslo Pass valid for 24 hours from Tourist Information Center in Oslo Central Station, but activated it only at the time of the tram/bus ride from Bus/tram station(Jernbanetorget) outside Oslo Central Station for visiting Sculpture Park.
Places to see:
- Opera House
- Akershus Fortress
- Oslo Fjord Cruise
- Oslo City Hall
- Parliament House
- Royal Palace
- Cathedral
- Sculpture Park
All these attractions we visited in the order mentioned by walk except for Sculpture Park. For sculpture park, activated Oslo pass and took the bus from Jernbanetorget to Majorstuen. Sculpture park is short walk from the Majorstuen bus station.
We surely did not miss the springing cherry blossom and tulips around Oslo’s streets. It sent my spirits high seeing the opulent sight.
Where to eat: From Michelin star fine dining to Street food, Oslo has the diverse spread to cater to our taste buds. But when in Norway, it is customary to surrender to some of the best bakers in the world. We did just that and indulged in lip smacking baked food. Carrot cake, Napoleon(a type of pastry), Local fresh Strawberry Jam with Multigrain bread, Cinnamon rolls, Coconut and custard to name a few specialties to feast in the Bakery chains of United Bakeries, W.B.Samson and Godt Brot. The street food from trucks opposite to the City hall also had some mouthwatering options like Crepe and Thai Food.
Reflections: Cities are a manifestation of man’s reasoning mind and when you see the cityscape you have read the minds of men who built it. Oslo oozes inclusiveness – a city for every age, every taste and every dream.
Day 3: Oslo : Meet the Vikings
To be smitten by inspirational vikings, voyages and expeditions to earth’s poles, visited the
- Viking Museum
- Fram Museum
- Kon-Tiki Museum
- Norwegian Folk Museum
If time permits, visit the Nobel Peace Center. On this day we used the Oslo Pass purchased for museum visits and public transport. Jernbanetorget is the starting point to catch tram/bus for visits to museum.
Reflections: I had met god here! Men beyond imagination who had left me intrigued by their gripping odysseys. Enduring Nature’s fury is by far the toughest men we can find on the planet and here in Oslo museums I had witnessed stories that left permanent impressions within me and redefined “adventure” in a way I couldn’t have comprehended before.
Day 4: Vaga : Live in the Fairytale Farmhouse
Stay @ Farmhouse
A picture is worth 1000 words. Some places are best chronicled through pictures than words. This is Vaga in Norway just off Jotnuheimen National park.
Reflections: World of miniature has always been an intriguing place for me to travel to the teeny-weeny things around us and be baffled by its beauty.Once a Yogi said, the detailing and perfection in the design of smallest of things in this universe is as brilliant as the design of gigantic things around. Such is the creative genius in the source of creation. Amazed at intricacy in one single ice flake!
Day 5: Jotnuheimen National Park
Drove into the Jotnuheimen National Park to visit Valdresflye and Lake Gjende. The lakes were frozen when we visited and it was sub-zero temperature with heaps of while snow all over at Valdresflye. However, weather permitting, its a great idea to go for the Bessegen Ridge Hike which passes through the turquoise and emerald green lakes of Bessvatnet and Gjende.
Reflections: Totally pampered by the hospitality of Norwegian family hosts at farmhouse. Awesome spread of homemade breakfast, spilling the beans over bottomless coffee with co-travelers engaging in discussion about everything under the sun as if they were your long lost friends.The joy of meeting unknown people, learning about new place, finding an explained connection at the level of humanity, shroud of prejudice falling and simply not bound by ticking time – Such were the simple pleasures life.
Day 6: Geirangerfjord: Ford cruise
Drove from Vaga to Geirangerfjord in the route shown: Vaga-> Lom -> Stryn ->Hellesyt. I could record the drive and make it into a movie — it surely was so scenic.
Visited the Lom Stave church and surely did not miss out the cinnamon rolls @ Bakeriet i Lom AS.
On reaching Hellesyt, we took the Geirangerfjord cruise, the highlight of Norway.
Stayed @ Cabins with breathtaking view of Geirangerfjord.
Reflections: Unadulterated serenity all around with water in its two states together in tranquility. As humans we often find ourselves in various states that leaves us disjointed from within unable to find peace between changing states as a function of time. Nature teaches us and inspires us to find the beauty, purpose and significance in every state yet finding that tranquility within us
Day 7: Geirangerfjord: Hiking
If Norway is a temple then Geirangerfjord is it’s Sanctum Sanctorum. One of the most scenic Fjords in the world with breathtaking hues that we simply can’t take our eyes off the vista.The aura of this place is inexplicable. This is the place where I got lost to find the real me.
Spent the day in Geirangerfjord – Walking, hiking along the Fjord. Visited the beautiful Westaras Gard farm. One of the scenic hikes is the Hike to Strassarterfossen, where we can even walk behind the water falls.
The unexplained joy of cuddling farm animals.
Reflections:I live here..in a fairy tale.
Day 8: Alesund – via the Eagle Road
We took the acclaimed Eagle road from Geiranger towards Alesund with spectacular sights of Geiranger Fjord at every turn. Reached beautiful city of Alesund. Hiked up to Fjellstua to get a panaromic view of the city.
Stayed @ a gorgeous Penthouse
Reflections: Today I just feel blessed! After everything I have seen so far and being amidst abundance of astounding topography, I am filled with gratitude and touched by grace.
Day 9: Alesund – Explore the the Venice of Norway
It was the day to explore the Venice of Norway by walk.
Places to visit:
- Cathedral
- The Art Nouveau Museum
- fun of kayaking on the canal.
Reflections: Alesund – A perfect blend of man…material and mother nature. Cobblestone roads, chic boutiques, families walking their dogs, children running around care free, young boys and girls with ice cream cones, people just lazing around in archetypal open air cafes giggling and engrossed in conversation fueled by pitcher of chilled beer or mulled wine. As much as we like mountains and landscapes, it is sometimes good to break even that monotony to make the whole trip vibrant.
Day 10: Kandal – via the Glaciers
We drove from Alesund to the serene village of Kandal along Lake Breimsvatnet. On the way had a sumptuous lunch at Stryn Vertshus.
Optional visit to the glaciers in Stryn – Briksdal and Jostedal.
Stayed @ Beautiful Norwegian Folk House
Day 11: Kandal : Dolce fer niente
Some days during travel, it is totally worth enjoying the sweetness of doing nothing in a idyllic surround, as quoted in Italian “Dolce fer niente”. That’s exactly what I did. Just gazing the Fjord, lake, taking a walk in the rain to go nowhere and listening to soulful music of the nature.
Other optional activities are walking around the village and hiking upto the Summer farm. The hosts of the property will give all the needed details for the walk/hike.
Day 12: Vik : Life in a quaint village
It was a treat to the eyes driving to Vik and coming to one of the most beautiful ferry crossings on Norway’s Kind of Fjords, Sogneford.
Visited Vik’s Stave Church and took a walk around the city. The green carpet of vik is totally captivating.
Stayed on the Green carpet of vik
Reflections: “Attraversiamo” – Let’s cross over. In Norway, it is typical to hit a Fjord that you need to cross over to reach from one place to another. The ferries like the one seen in picture help crossover the Fjord. In life too, we are often confronted with challenges and we have to find that “ferry” within us to make the crossover.
Day 13: Flam: Day trip from Vik
Flam can be visited as a day trip from Vik. One of the most scenic drives in Norway is from Vik to Flam. Highly recommend the scenic train from Flam to Myrdal return on The Flam Railway.
Optional Fjord cruise on Noeroyfjord.
Reflections: It was now easy to comprehend John Muir’s words — ” The Mountains are calling and I have to go…”.
Day 14: Balestrand: Day trip from Vik
Nothing compares to simple pleasures such as biking with family or friends or even solo. The quaint village of Balestrand offers some of the most scenic biking tracks along the Heritage Road and from the Sentrum to Dragsvik ferry station.
Reflections: Spent a lot of time with the hosts understanding the local culture. At the end of it, we had become friends with a promise to meet at sometime in future. I hit the sack feeling I belong here. Sometimes we hold the identities so strong which blurs every time I travel. Because for most part, I have come across people around the world irrespective of their identities are nice, hospitable, loving, caring, warm and have aspirations similar to mine for a good life.
Day 15: Stavanger : via Odda, a drive to remember
Its a day for long drive from Vik to Stavanger via Odda. Stopped by the Latefossen water falls for a spine-chilling experience. The fury of waterfalls is one of its kind. It was also the day, I went for a “No-camera” day. Sometimes I do not like the distraction of even the camera to be in the moment.
Stayed @ Beautiful villa
Day 16: Stavanger: where old and new towns meet
We took a walk around the beautiful city of Stavanger where the Heritage meets Contemporary.
Places to Visit
- Ovre Strandgata
- Sverdifjell
- Toy Museum
Reflections: “we walk the alleys of life till death do us apart”. I lingered onto the the image of beautiful old couple walking holding hands in the historic street of Ovre Strandgate in Stavanger, Norway.
Day 17: Pulpit Rock Hike
Its was a day to challenge our bodies. One of the most popular hikes in Norway that gives great views of Lysefjord from the Pulpit Rock.
Reflections: Nirvana it was! It was time for my fears to have its skyfall where I open my arms to the sky being liberated.
Day 18: Bergen : A UNESCO World Heritage city
Come home to the UNESCO World Heritage city. Spent the evening at Bryggen, walking through the shops, restaurants and alleys.
Reflections: Today I resonated with my daughter’s reflection. She was so appreciative of the city designed impeccably to commute on cycle. It is the first characteristic you would notice about the city. Environmental sensitivity and importance to fitness as a lifestyle was commendable.
Day 19: Bergen : Hike, Zip, Eat and Shop
Places to Visit
- Floyen – We hiked up and on return took the Funicular for the experience of Hike and the train.
- Walk along the Heritage homes
- Fort
- Harbour
Optional visit to the Science Museum.
Reflections: I found a thought provoking quote hanged on the kitchen wall which I lingered onto. ” Life is not about avoiding the storm but about learning to dance in the rain”.
Day 20: Bergen : Unwind
A day spent unwinding, shopping souvenirs, reliving the trip through reflections and nearly pack.
Optional day trip to Hardrangerfjord.
Reflections: Spent reading books on Norway and other places we had not planned in the itinerary like Lofoten, Tromso, Nordkapp, Trondhiem and by the end of it I had made a promise to come back.
Day 21: Bergen to Oslo Scenic Train
I did end the trip with a bonanza of the scenic train on NSB from Bergen to Oslo experiencing the bliss of looking out of a glass window.
Reflections: In my view, travel is one of the best investments for life. The returns are exponential at the level of experience and had transformed me progressively. Aided to pull down the shroud of prejudices built over time and be open to new possibilities. Most importantly helped in being more alive to each moment and living in the present.
Day 22: Return home with memories carved in gold
Returned home with heaps of memories carved in Gold and Norway in a nutshell had touched and transformed me in a way to come more alive and aware of life within me and all around.